A recent update from the culinary scenes of the capital’s upscale pubs, trendy Instagram eateries, and wine bars reveals an emerging favorite dish: the classic cheese toastie. However, calling it “new” might not capture the reality. This beloved comfort food is now appearing in establishments where a simple plate of olives may cost a fiver.
While one might describe it as a renaissance, that would overlook the toastie’s role as a long-standing staple during busy lunches, sick days, or any evening when all you seek is immediate satisfaction. Instead, we could say that the cheese toastie has undergone something of a culinary revamp.
It’s been spotted on various menus throughout London. Bar Levan in Peckham features a croque monsieur, while the Library, an elegant cocktail venue in Maida Vale, offers a classic toastie laden with rich cheese and served with zesty chutney for dipping.
In Farringdon, Quality Wines, led by trendsetting chef Nick Bramham, boasts its version of a croque monsieur, generously layered with provolone, Brie de Meaux, Prince de Paris ham, and truffles. Meanwhile, the Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch has dedicated an entire section of its menu to toasties. Recently, Marceline in Canary Wharf even hosted a competition for the best croque monsieur among chefs.
In my opinion, this development is fantastic news. Who can resist the allure of hot, gooey cheese sandwiched between crunchy bread after a drink or two? Moreover, the rise of the toastie at restaurants indicates a significant shift in how chefs are designing more “upscale” menus.
Once, these menus featured dishes that chefs believed diners should want to eat—plates of exotic meats (which often taste just like premium supermarket salami) or elaborate patés that require incredible effort to prepare. Now, it seems they’re catering more to actual consumer desires. Cheese toasties and croque monsieurs encapsulate familiar, comforting flavors. While purists might argue the two dishes aren’t identical, their comforting nature is undeniably similar.
This shift begs the question: what has prompted the change in perspective surrounding small plates? Social media’s influence on food and lifestyle trends likely plays a role. As quality ingredients remain essential, gaining attention has become crucial for a dish’s success, particularly in the Instagram age, where a stunning photo can lead to viral popularity. Take, for instance, the XXL three-cheese toastie at the Wigmore in central London, a longtime menu fixture that hints at future trends largely due to its visual appeal.
Not all toasties need to be colossal, but they do capture people’s nostalgia and curiosity—elements that resonate well on social media. Items like cheese toasties stand out on a refined menu because they evoke a sense of the familiar; in recent times, everything from Viennetta to bread and butter pudding has seen a fine dining twist.
Chefs and diners alike scrolling through their feeds are drawn to innovative takes on classic dishes or the chance to savor an “ultimate” iteration of beloved items, such as Quality Wines’ exceptional croque. Thus, the surge in cheese toasties seems to reflect this trend—similar to the gourmet burger craze of the early 2000s.
In the end, seeing cheese toasties on the menus of wine bars and upscale pubs is a welcome development. It’s a hearty dish that, let’s be honest, often feels more worth the money than an elaborate charcuterie board. This trend also indicates a shift in the small plates landscape. Naturally, where an upscale wine bar exists, a deviled egg will follow, but these venues are beginning to incorporate more dishes that align with the cravings for kebabs and chips that surface after a night out. As the saying goes, life is all about balance.
Lauren O’Neill is a culture writer.
