On a Sunday last September, I found myself seated at an outdoor table of one of Lyon’s renowned traditional “bouchon” eateries, savoring a delightful prix-fixe meal as a sudden downpour drenched the cobblestones around me and the umbrella shielding me from the rain. When the waiter inquired if I wished to relocate indoors, I declined; provided I remained mostly dry alongside my andouillette, I was far too engrossed in observing the bustling street life and admiring the lovely beige-hued architecture to fret over a few raindrops. If a little rain didn’t deter my fellow diners, why should it dissuade anyone in the famously drizzly UK? Interestingly, London receives less annual precipitation than cities like Rome, Paris, or Vienna.
A central narrative we tell about ourselves as a nation is that we approach life differently than our carefree continental neighbors. This difference is underscored by our need to borrow – and often misinterpret – terms like “alfresco” from the Italians and “flâneur” from the French (meaning wanderer), while we still tend to overlook the Spanish concepts of “sobremesa” (post-meal socializing) and “paseo” (an evening stroll) – perhaps because we often keep to ourselves compared to our neighbors across the English Channel. We are familiar with the stereotype that an Englishman’s abode is his fortress, and given that our private water companies maintain the metaphorical moat, it’s likely safer for us to remain indoors until the worst of the weather passes.
Yet, the uncharacteristically sunny April has seamlessly transitioned into May, coaxing many Britons out of their homes, squinting at the bright skies. Seizing this opportunity, London’s mayor, Sadiq Khan, has unveiled the Summer Streets fund, a new initiative aimed at enhancing outdoor dining and drinking and extending operating hours throughout the city. The £300,000 allocation will assist London’s 32 boroughs (and the City of London) in establishing new al fresco dining spaces, while eateries, venues, and bars have been assured that their bureaucratic hurdles and fees will be minimized or eliminated. While this amount may seem limited – the mayor’s budget is quite restricted – the principle behind it and the message about the future of our urban spaces are significant.
This initiative ostensibly aims to support a struggling hospitality industry. Establishments in the food and drink sector have grappling with the ramifications of Brexit, the pandemic, skyrocketing costs, staff shortages, and supply chain issues, compounded by exorbitant rents in major urban areas. During the pandemic, driven by the demands for social distancing and open-air settings, many hospitality businesses developed outdoor seating areas, aided by transient road closures.
However, not all these adaptations have remained in place. A notable initiative in Soho was dismantled by Westminster council in September 2021 after a sustained effort by local residents, resulting in the retraction of no fewer than 16,000 outdoor seats. In 2020, specific pavement licences were introduced, now mandated by law, which entail fees, paperwork, and a required consultation period – councils must consider foot traffic, access, insurance, and the impact on nearby residents.
With this new funding initiative, there lies an opportunity to revive the joy and togetherness that helped many through challenging times. There exists a cultural pessimism within British identity that suggests “we can’t enjoy nice things like this,” as if it’s not our custom. I believe this perspective is unfounded: social habits can be rapidly adopted or discarded, largely shaped by what is allowed. Cultivating a street dining culture will encourage people to take advantage of the available seats.
Additionally, this initiative could counteract the tendency of London developers to construct unwelcoming public spaces. Privately owned public areas, or Pops, like Canary Wharf (partly owned by Qatar) or More London near Tower Bridge (owned by Kuwait), serve merely as illusions where genuine public space ought to be – they are monitored by private security and come with numerous hidden restrictions, rules, and regulations. Moreover, there’s the issue of “hostile architecture,” manifesting as uncomfortable benches that one can’t linger on for long periods. The “hostility” described often targets the homeless and young individuals engaged in harmless pursuits like skateboarding, but ultimately, the hostility extends towards the public at large. The British capital frequently presents itself as an antisocial city amidst a populace eager for connection. It’s high time we let them venture out and enjoy themselves.
Dan Hancox is a freelance writer focusing on music, politics, urban life, and culture.
