Two exquisite Cartier brooches adorned with diamonds, formerly belonging to the affluent socialite Virginia Courtauld, will be showcased for the first time at her historic residence in southeast London.
Eltham Palace, a noteworthy Tudor royal estate, underwent a significant transformation in the 1930s, infused with art-deco elements by Ms. Courtauld and her spouse, Stephen.
The designs of the falcon and white Tudor rose brooches draw inspiration from the palace’s stained glass windows and were presented as “a profoundly sentimental gift from husband to wife,” as stated by English Heritage.
Kevin Booth, the charity’s head curator of collections, expressed his delight that the jewelry has returned to its rightful place after being acquired at auction.
He remarked, “Virginia Courtauld’s exquisite Cartier diamond and gem-encrusted brooches encapsulate the chic, contemporary essence that Virginia and Stephen infused into Eltham Palace.
“The brooches seamlessly blend historical elements, such as the cyphers of Edward IV, with a modern color scheme featuring pink tourmaline and blue sapphire, perfectly aligning with Virginia and Stephen’s vision for the palace.
“These pieces not only exemplify the exceptional craftsmanship of Cartier but also hold deep sentimental value as a gift exchanged between husband and wife.”
The Courtaulds took on the lease of the palace in 1933, undertaking extensive restoration work.
They preserved the grand hall constructed for Edward IV in the 1470s, which features stained glass windows that inspired the brooch designs.
The couple had the grand hall’s stained glass windows embellished with Edward’s cyphers.
The jewelry, given to Lady Courtauld by Sir Stephen in 1937, features the cyphers of Edward IV, incorporating the white rose of York surrounded by a starburst, referred to as Rose en Soleil, along with a falcon within a fetterlock shackle.
English Heritage suggests that Lady Courtauld likely wore the brooches while hosting illustrious guests.
These pieces were acquired for £19,000 at auction, funded by a grant from the Art Fund and a donation from the Wolfson Foundation.
Notably, Eltham Palace was the childhood home of King Henry VIII and functioned as a royal residence for Tudor monarchs.
