Kirk Haworth, the proprietor and executive chef of the Plates restaurant in East London, has a strong aversion to the term vegan. “Seeing that word on a menu is bothersome,” he admits. “For me, plant-based cuisine isn’t just a passing fad; it’s been my passion for eight years, and it’s become a fundamental part of who I am.” Despite his reluctance to embrace the label, this week he earned distinction as the first chef in the UK to receive a Michelin star for exclusively plant-based cooking.
Plates is an intimate venue, accommodating only 25 guests, with two seating times fully booked until the end of April. The restaurant’s phone line is often busy, and they can manage reservations only for today and tomorrow—anything beyond that requires an email.
“It’s been this way since our launch. We had 76,000 people attempting to make reservations, causing our website to crash,” he shares. Plates opened shortly after Haworth triumphed in the televised cooking competition Great British Menu. “I’m not sure if anyone has reviewed it yet because tables are so hard to come by.”
The patrons here are dedicated Haworth enthusiasts, arriving in varying groups. One couple beside me has waited nine months for a reservation (Plates just opened last July), while another guest, waiting for the restroom, mentions enjoying his meal but was invited by a friend and had no prior knowledge of the restaurant.
Aside from two business types at the bar discussing salaries, most diners come from outside of London, snap pictures of the restaurant’s exterior but rarely of their dishes, and are easily identified by their rather dressy attire rather than casual chic. This unique location near Old Street, amid a hub of hipster culture, contrasts sharply with the Michelin star it has earned, especially given that it’s close to East London’s more traditionally acclaimed Turkish and Vietnamese eateries.
Formerly a vegan bar and restaurant that shut its doors due to the pandemic—a closure that affected around 14% of eateries in central London—heralds a resurgence of plant-based dining in an area that has much to offer.
Moving on to the culinary experience, Plates offers a generous tasting menu. Among Haworth’s favored dishes is a slow-cooked leeks presentation, topped with a sprinkling of frozen verjus (pressed unripe grapes), along with barbecued mushrooms.
However, it’s the meat substitutes that truly make an impact. A lasagna crafted from mung and urad beans tastes remarkably authentic, served with a slice of cucumber that serves as a reminder of its plant-based nature. Then there’s a croissant-like creation that resembles bread, presented alongside a cashew-based “butter.” When questioned about the use of the term butter for a non-dairy spread, Haworth simply states, “Butter is a matter of perception.”
Nowhere on the menu will you find the words “vegan,” “plant-based,” “dairy-free,” or even “cow-lite.” “I have a strong dislike for imitation,” he asserts, referring to the trend of plant-based meat and cheese alternatives. While beetroot can convincingly replicate beef in flavor, here, meat and fish are entirely replaced rather than modified.
The ambience at Plates strikes a balance between casual and refined. Even the name, Plates, suggests an abundance of dishes. The semi-open kitchen radiates a tranquil vibe, reminiscent of a space where meals aren’t prepared à la minute, framed by a countertop crafted from four felled London trees.
Guests relax on mustard-colored banquettes, with the sizeable Holiday Inn across the street obscured by café curtains. The single restroom features a striking basin made from polished stone. Michelin inspectors have described the setting as cozy rather than cramped, indicating that the charm veers towards upscale rather than informal.
In true Michelin fashion, there are orchestrated sauce-pouring theatrics at the table. The presence of dry ice adds an air of drama to some dishes, and diners receive guidance on which utensils to use for each course. The inventive mocktails, including a “yuzuade,” are enjoyable but perhaps not essential. Some textures, such as the crunchy puffed rice, can be surprising, and the price tag of £90 for the meal (not including drinks) may feel steep for vegetables. Still, there are ample single diners willing to spend £150, signifying that this is indeed a sought-after destination.
The Michelin system has changed over the years. A report from University College London reveals that restaurants with stars are statistically more likely to close than highly-rated establishments without one. This year’s award ceremony saw a decrease in the number of new one- and two-star additions, with only one new three-star establishment. Nonetheless, earning a star remains a challenge. “It would be ideal to claim that it’s tougher to gain recognition for plant-based cuisine, but I’ve done both, and it’s a rigorous undertaking regardless,” says Haworth, who honed his skills at the renowned French Laundry, known for its seafood delicacies.
Dessert consists of a cacao gateau topped with raw caramel, the signature dish that won Haworth the Great British Menu distinction. As a result, it is notably larger than the other offerings. Initially, three desserts appeared on the menu; however, if a course is omitted, it is the risotto that takes the hit, not the rice pudding.
While Haworth acknowledges that the current food system is unsustainable, it was only after he was diagnosed with Lyme disease that he delved into plant-based eating, discovering it alleviated his symptoms. “But that’s my experience. Most of my guests aren’t vegan; I’d estimate about 99%. That has to say something.”
